My biggest concern after the pulley fell off the water pump on my 2009 Toyota RAV4 V-6, leaving me stranded on the Ohio Turnpike, wasn't whether a texting motorist or semi would plow into me, but whether the engine's head gaskets had been damaged by running the engine hot—however briefly that was. That possibility seemed to dwarf any concerns I had at the time about my own safety and getting myself and my car back home. Read more about that odyssey here.
I knew it was the water pump because the strange whirring sound from its failing bearing had recently gotten much, much worse. It was the same sound the water pump was making when I first bought the RAV three years ago from a friend who insisted, after I replaced it, that he had told me it needed to be replaced. Somehow, we're still the best of friends.
It had been on my to-do list to replace the pump, but I didn't prioritize it because a mechanic I use for work that's above my pay grade said that as long as the pump wasn't leaking—which it wasn't—and was "holding pressure," which it was, I shouldn't be too concerned about it.
Well, mechanics, like doctors, don't know everything.
The failing bearing got so bad that the pump shaft developed enough play that the pulley was literally shaken loose from its mounting. As bad as the circumstances were, being stranded out where God lost his bicycle, I shudder to think about how much worse it could have been.
That same mechanic who told me not to be too concerned about the wobbly pump also told me there was no simple way to determine whether the engine's head gaskets had been damaged. Sure, there's a cooling-system pressure test, a combustion-gas test of the coolant, compression testing and a leak-down test. But determining whether an engine had actually suffered damage from overheating would be a lot easier with engine running at operating temperature.
Naturally, that couldn't be done since the water pump was AWOL.
So I would have to pay my mechanic—or some shop—full freight for the water-pump swap regardless of whether or not the head gaskets were shot. The going rate for that job was about $1,200. My guy wouldn't give me a quote because he didn't feel it was right to do the job, discover that the head gaskets were toast, and then not follow through with rebuilding the engine on a vehicle with so many miles—nearly 330,000—on it.
The same can't be said for other shops around town. Can't say I blame them either.
That put me in a conundrum: junk the RAV or swap the pump myself and hope for the best.
To know me is to know I took the latter option.
Replacing the water pump on Toyota's famed 2GR-FE, 3.5-liter V-6 isn't a particularly complicated job, but it is a tedious one that requires you to work mostly stooped over in a cramped space. There's a fair amount of disassembly, and it requires careful cataloging of what came off and where it goes back; hence, I took plenty of pictures and video. The 2GR-FE water-pump job involves removing the two-piece, hydraulic motor mounts, water-pump pulley, belt-related components and the thermostat/water-inlet housing, among other things.
Getting the radiator hose off the thermostat housing is a beast, and then making sure the gasket between the thermostat housing and the water inlet is secure is literal water torture—more like coolant torture. You don't know if you did everything correctly until you put the coolant back in and check for leaks.
One bit of advice: to test your work for leaks, fill the system with distilled water and let it sit overnight. If it holds the water, you can drain it and refill the system with the Toyota approved and pricey coolant. You'll need just under 10-quarts.
Through the heat, humidity, the tight workspace and the added stress that all I was doing might be for naught, I got the old pump out and the new one installed in three days.
My palms sweaty, my heart racing, I filled the system with coolant, praying to St. Christopher, the patron saint of travelers, that there were no leaks and that all my work wasn't for naught.
I learned the hard way about the system leaking. First go-round, I missed that the gasket between the thermostat housing and the pump falling out, imagine my misery seeing the coolant slowly drip out of the engine knowing there was nothing I could do to stop it and that I'd have to practically redo have of my work.
If my efforts were all in vain, that would mean tearing everything apart again to get the new pump out and return it. That would have been an exercise in abject sadness.
Then came the big test: Would the engine get up to operating temperature and stay there, or would it overheat? If it did overheat, would I junk the RAV, get quotes on an engine rebuild or go for a straight-up engine swap? And how much would all of that cost?
All that was going through my mind as I started the RAV for the first time with the new pump.
There was no strange whirring, just the same smooth and silken purr of the big engine I've come to know and love over the past three years.
I gingerly backed out of my garage, down my driveway and onto my street. Gentle pokes on the gas pedal followed as I turtled through my subdivision, keeping a laser-focused eye on the temperature gauge.
Slowly, it began to creep up and up. I made sure not to stray from my neighborhood; best to stay literally close to home in case I had to stop driving it.
The gauge continued to rise slowly. I turned the heat on, and warm air blew gently through the cabin—a good sign. I took the RAV slowly around the block twice as the temperature gauge stopped at its familiar operating-temperature position. The heat was now its old blazing-hot self.
I went back to my garage, checked the coolant level and sniffed hard for burning coolant. All seemed good.
Another, longer drive an hour or so later produced the same result: no drama. After a weekend of short road trips, the verdict was looking pretty good. Thank you, St. Christopher, patron saint of travelers.
My 2009 Toyota RAV4 V-6 Limited lives to die another day.